It has been about a year since I last returned to Shanghai, but in the past month, I have made several trips to Hong Kong. Especially when I go out for a walk in the early morning, I can clearly see that Hong Kong now is very different from what it was 21 years ago. Sheung Wan and Central are particularly desolate. It's not that there are no shopping streets or foot traffic; during the day, there are still quite a few people. But the biggest difference is at night.

I remember when I was starting a business in Hong Kong in 2019 and 2020, I could go out at 2 or 3 AM to eat at street stalls. The food was delicious and cheap, and the owners were very humorous. At that time, there were many Michelin-starred restaurants similar to street stalls. Back then, the shrimp in Hong Kong didn't smell bad, and crabs weren't just found under bridges. Although rats and cockroaches scurried at my feet, just wandering around meant encountering long-established eateries.

When I go to Hong Kong again in 2024, many of the small shops I used to frequent will be gone. I took my chipmunk to Harbour City and found that the places that used to have long lines at noon were now deserted. Even taking the ferry with my chipmunk felt less lively than the atmosphere in Pudong. Although there were still many people, it just felt different.

In Harbour City, I often walked for half a day without seeing anyone other than the sales staff. After that visit, I never went back to Harbour City, but I still love staying in Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, near Hung Hom. There are still some good snacks during the day, and although there are fewer at night, it's nice to go out and enjoy the breeze by Victoria Harbour. Plus, there's Ichiran Ramen nearby. Why Ichiran Ramen? Because it's one of the few places open until 3 AM. Sometimes, after finishing my writing, I get hungry and run out for a meal.

I digress. This time, I stayed near Kennedy Town, a place I used to visit often. Although there are still quite a few old shops, most of them close after midnight. The few restaurants that stay open until 1 or 2 AM are terribly unappetizing.

When I was starting my business, I loved bringing my friends to Hong Kong. I still really like Hong Kong now, but it's more because my friends are here rather than the city itself attracting me.

PS: I still remember the first time I went to Hong Kong. I felt like a "country bumpkin," shocked by the luxury of Hong Kong while also attracted to its "urban-rural fringe." Walking down the street, any ice room was delicious. My favorite back then was Tsui Wah; I could never get tired of Hainan chicken, and I could finish the pepper in my wonton noodles every time.

What a pity. Such a Hong Kong may only exist in my memories now.

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